We left Coober Pedy without a backward glance and drove with anticipation towards William Creek where we had booked a two hour flight over Lake Eyre. It was quite an interesting drive with the environment constantly changing as we drove further south. In places the roa
d was quite smooth and we could travel at 90km/h, in other spots it was clear why the road had been closed only two weeks earlier as there were deep tyre ruts and the road was quite rough. Our speed was reduced considerably. We decided our timing was pretty good because if we had been here two weeks earlier, we would not have been able to travel on these tracks.
We were only able to book the 1pm flight as the 11am was booked out so as we only had 160km to travel, we took our time and stopped at any interesting spots along the way. The old Ghan Railway (short for Afghan & named after the Afghani camel drivers who helped to build it) was decommissioned in 1980 and there was evidence of settler camps all along the route. It would make a great bike track we decided, just couldn't use it for 8 months of the year due to the high temperatures - 52C highest recorded.
The William Creek pub was a gem, I had the best cappucino and gluten free bickie in the middle of nowhere!! It was a really friendly place and we decided we could come back here for an overnight stay on some future trip.
Off in the plane, I was placed in the last seat at the rear, which was fine with me because you know which part of the plane usually survives the crash don't you? All jokes aside, I did enjoy the take off and I really feel privileged to have seen Lake Eyre at its best. Although some of the birdlife has moved on we did see nesting pelicans and pied stilts. Mind you, by the time I got the camera ready, we'd flown over them!!
The pilot reckoned that the Lake would probably be empty again by January and he flew us over the Cooper and pointed out some spots where you could catch Yellowbelly. That's Vinnie's next aim to catch yabbies and yellowbelly in the Cooper, otherwise why would he have bought a yabby net in Mitchell??And why have we been carrying a fishing rod all this way without getting it wet? The flight ended and we jumped in the car having to drive a further 80km to make camp at a little place called Coward Springs.
We went off road to check out another historic site and came upon a couple of campers who had set up
This sign was not encouraging but did prove prophetic!for the night. I'm not sure whether it was the inviation to share a bottle of Clare Valley red, or the plea "Hey mate, you don't happen to have a yabby trap with you do ya?" that clinched the deal but we decided they seemed like ok blokes so we joined them at their campfire and Smithy as we came to know him, popped the yabby trap in the dam and hoped for entree. Wishful thinking perhaps...or just having a bit of fun. We set the tent up with little fuss and were ready for our first bush camp of the trip. Yes, we finally get to use the shovel! I won't elaborate on that one!!
Turns out, his mate Jason was a dab hand at making damper so the blokes shared their food and wine and Vinnie cooked up a big
steak & eggs on the bush barbie. What a great night! I'm not sure whether I could do a couple of nights on the run, but I certainly appreciated the simplicity of a night (almost) under the stars. The blokes had swags and they had a visitor in the form of a dingo sniffing around their heads at some time during the night. He actually pinched one of their bowls! I'm glad there was a wall of canvas between myself and the dingo!
Yes Smithy caught 2 yabbies but we weren't keen to eat them for brekkie so we freed them.We packed up early the next morning and drove towards Lyndhurst where we planned to spend a couple of nights. We called into Coward Springs and it too was a lovely little camp ground with a mineral spring. We had a quick dip in lieu of a shower and continued on our way.
Lyndhurst was a tiny little hamlet with a very dusty looking campground so we fueled up and decided to head to Leigh Creek which looked a bit bigger on the map at least. We didn't quite make it there as we drove into Copley, we looked at the caravan park and decided it was good enough for a two night stay.
The pub was a great little pub as well and obviously the hub of the town. The menu looked inviting so we decided to eat out (not making a big dent in all that cryovacked (?) meat in our frig!)
The next day (today, I think it's Tuesday), we got on our bikes as we have got into the habit of doing after a few days in the car. We rode to Leigh Creek which seems to have been manufactured by the local coal mine. Vinnie made the comment that it seemed to "lack heart" because all the buildings were built in the last 30 years. We rode out to the local dam - again built to service the coal mine. It was full to the brim, reflecting all the rainfall they have had over the past few months. The wind was blowing a gale and Vinnie was anxious to get back to check the tent, as we nearly lost the annex when the wind was strong at Coober Pedy. We rode back into an incredibly strong headwind. Fortunately it wasn't far! The tent was still in one piece but had begun to cave in on one side so Vinnie found every peg and rope he could muster to anchor it down. It will probably take us twice as long to pack up in the morning with all the pegs that will have to be removed!!
We're off along the Strzelecki track tomorrow, 520km on a dirt road, the condition of which is unknown. We may have to have a bush camp along the way, depending on how long it takes to get to Innamincka. We hope to be in Tibooburra in time to vote next Saturday. Until then we will most likely be out of contact.
Aroona Dam